America by Train

All aboard!

The USA has much more to offer the tourist than guaranteed sunshine and bargain shopping, and there’s a relatively unknown way to discover what this country is really all about. Most people think of travelling by car or plane but you should certainly investigate America’s wonderful trains - perhaps the last means of luxury transport available to everyone. The 25,000 mile Amtrak rail network takes in almost all states, giving a choice of 500 destinations and access to such tourist essentials as San Francisco, the Rocky Mountains and the Grand Canyon.

The Iron Horse

Railroads opened up America more than a century ago and some of today’s long-distance trains still follow the original pioneering routes. They also use many of the great stations built during the golden age of passenger travel. An impressive example stands in Washington, DC, decorated in gold leaf and restored to its original grandeur with dozens of shops, restaurants and a multi-screen cinema. Chicago’s Union Station features a marble and brass waiting room as large as many a cathedral. It’s said that Al Capone used to stop by for his daily shoeshine in the shower room below.

Hotels on wheels

US trains are like mobile hotels, boasting gleaming aluminium twin-decked coaches, air-conditioning, observation cars and uniformed attendants who make you feel you have stepped into a 1930s Hollywood movie. Reclining seats are thick and soft, with comfortable leg-rests so that you can snooze after a meal or sleep through the night (a good way to save on hotel bills). Pillows and subdued lighting are provided by the attendant.
Trains also have traditional sleeping cars with cosy bedrooms ranging from single 'roomettes' to family size affairs for those travelling with children. Accommodation includes breakfast, lunch and dinner in the dining car, as well as complimentary tea or coffee and a newspaper delivered each morning. Meals are of a high standard, including regional specials such as freshly caught trout or barbecued spare ribs. Video films of recent vintage are shown in the lounge bar during the evenings, when the place becomes lively with impromptu parties and poker games.

Time to unwind

The atmosphere on board is invariably relaxed and the modest speed perfect for sightseeing, so this is a great way to explore the landscape and meet the natives. You have room to stretch out or walk around and instead of racing above the clouds you can watch an entire continent unroll outside the wraparound windows. Even occasional glimpses of city backyards can be fascinating, although trains are scheduled to pass through the less prepossessing areas by night. Children are particularly well catered for with games and other amusements and rarely become bored with the thrill of riding the tracks and making new friends.

Chance encounters are a vital part of what makes American train journeys such a rewarding experience. One day it may be a group of Italian schoolgirls heading for Niagara Falls, the next it is Australian backpackers in Texas. US trains are friendly places and you’re sure to run into someone interesting. You can learn a lot by sitting next to a Kansas City mortician or a drag artist on her way to entertain the troops in San Diego. Between small towns and big cities you also experience the country’s sheer size and variety, getting a feel for what this land must have been like before the days of McDonalds and Coca Cola.

Low prices

Best of all, ticket prices are amazingly low and visitors from overseas benefit from an array of passes that make this one of the world's great travel bargains. You can stop off en route as often as you wish and for any length of time, so given a little planning you should find a train to take you almost everywhere you want to go, and perhaps to a few places you hadn't expected. It's easy to work out an itinerary that lets you see more of this diverse country in a short time than is possible any other way. And as the bell clangs and the conductor calls out 'All aboard!' you soon discover why the railroad experience is so delightfully addictive.

Across Country By Train

We were both looking forward to the trip. My sister had flown in from Washington State. We were going to travel across country by train on Amtrak's 'Southwest Chief', a train that winds Southwest from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, the edge of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and through the Mojave Desert to California.

After spending a few days with family, we departed early one afternoon from Penn Central station in Baltimore. After a short trip to Washington D.C. we boarded the train that was to take us out to Chicago. By the first evening, we had traveled through West Virginia and into Ohio about the time we decided to settle down. We had figured on sleeping in the coach but soon found out that a dozen squealing kids and seats not made for sleeping wouldn't make for a fun trip. Fortunately there was one available, and we were quite relieved to spend the rest of the evening in our compact sleeping car watching the snow covered passing towns.

The next day we arrived in Chicago in the early afternoon. We had a three hour layover there, so we decided to venture out and explore the Windy City. That plan was soon changed after walking out into some of the coldest weather I've ever experienced. Walking the streets, and sidestepping piles of snow, we quickly determined that hanging out in the nearest bar made a lot more sense than climbing over these miniature Mount Everest's. After several drinks and bit of good food, and a few more drinks we staggered back to the train to continue our journey.

After the first night, my sister and I decided that a sleeper was a necessity, so after making arrangements for one, we settled in for a long trip. One of the attendants named James fixed us up with sleeping arrangements and mentioned that he was going to take good care of us, and do every thing possible so that us 'lovebirds' would have a great trip. I told James that nah, we weren't from West Virginia just a sister and brother traveling across country. I'm not quite sure he understood what I meant, but we had fun with it the rest of the trip. Between him and Hambone our other attendant, they indeed took care of our needs and were quite helpful.

The next day took us through Missouri and Kansas. Although watching the passing landscape is enjoyable, after a while you start to need something to break up the monotony of sitting and we soon started looking forward to the meals that were provided with the sleeper. Train food is surprisingly good. In dining cars, space is at a premium, so if there are two of you, they will match you up with another couple. We were matched up with a couple that had a sleeper across from us. We called them Edith and Mumbles. During the meal, Edith would talk pretty much non stop. Her husband on the other hand was solemn, and whenever he did offer any conversation it was always so low that you couldn't understand what he was saying. After a time or two whenever Mumbles would speak, we would just nod our head and say something like, "is that right?", and continue with our meal.

The next day was a beautiful day and perfect for viewing the passing landscape. I was amazed at the open space and ranges that make up New Mexico. It's hard to appreciate the vastness of this country until you've traveled across it. I've done it several times and each time I'm blown away at the size and scope of the land. Traveling by train enables you to sit back and really take it all in.

While traveling through New Mexico we had some unscheduled R&R as one of the engines failed as we were climbing up the hill, so while waiting for a replacement we embarked and wandered into the nearby town for a bit. It seemed more like a town in Mexico than the U.S. Lots of little bars and Mexican restaurants. After a bit, we wandered back to the train, and on with our trip. That night we traveled through New Mexico and into Arizona. Along the way we had decided to embark in Flagstaff, Arizona as there were a couple of places that we wanted to see, such as the Grand Canyon. The next day we went there and drove on down to Phoenix. We missed the last part of the journey, that being the trip on to L.A. Maybe next time-NOT!

A couple of tips; if you're going to be on the train for more than a day, get a sleeper! They come in two basic packages, the economy version and the deluxe. The economy is a no frills and quite compact sleeper. The seats fold down for sleeping and up during day use. The deluxe on the other hand is roomier and comes with a shower and steeper price. Another thing to keep in mind is last time I checked, Amtrak would allow you three overnight departures meaning that you can get off of the train, stay in a hotel and pick up the train the next evening. Since the train only comes through once a day, you'll have to make sure you're there on time, or else you'll be spending another day at that location.

Traveling by train is a great way to travel and see places that you've never seen before in a way that only a train can provide. Watching the passing landscape in a panoramic travel car certainly beats the bus, and the food is much better. Even Mumbles would agree with me on that.